Authenticity
abounds at Jose Jose
By Ryan
Randazzo, Outpost
staff
A friend recommended "Jose
Jose" on Prater Way to me, saying it was the most authentic
Mexican restaurant in Reno. On a recent visit, the
atmosphere sent me back to spring break in Rocky Point,
Mexico. With one taste of the food I was counting down the
days left before I would return to the states. Authenticity
confirmed.
Chicken in cream sauce comes covered in onions at
Jose Jose. The plate goes well with the handmade
tortillas.
Photo by
Ryan
Randazzo
The similarities between "Jose Jose" and the Mexican restaurants I spent college down time in are apparent walking through the door. Forget formalities about where you sit; just find a place. Our waiter was at the table with menus and ready to take our drink order as soon as we sat down. My girlfriend Melissa and I ordered Cokes ($1.25) and a quesadilla appetizer ($3.99). Beer and margaritas also are served. Other appetizer choices ranged from guacamole ($3.99) to lime-cooked shrimp ($10.99).
The waiter pulled the cans of soda from a large cooler with glass doors and served them to us with a glass of ice. Serving drinks this way makes it difficult to indulge too heavily in the spicy food because refills aren't free. This is not what I am used to, but I suppose it is part of the authentic experience. Mexico is a decidedly anti-fountain drink country. Sodas are always served from a can or bottle and beer on tap in nearly impossible to find except in the nicest places.
"Jose Jose" isn't a fancy
place, but it is comfortable. It is bright and clean but not
immaculate. The furniture, appliances and décor are
all mismatched. The wood booth we sat in had high backs that
we couldn't see over and soft leather padding. The walls are
mostly empty except for a few sombreros, Corona mirrors and
maps of Mexico tacked up in a random fashion. The Virgin
Mary is painted on the wall at the end of the main dining
area. A television near the cashier was showing a Mexican
soap opera, and two young children were playing video games
on another in the dining area. The place was less than half
full with only two other tables besides our own being
occupied at 7 on a
weeknight.
Spiced hot shrimp are exactly that, be sure to
order an extra glass of water, you'll need it.
Photo by Ryan
Randazzo
When the waiter brought the quesadilla, it was a hot, good-sized portion served in a 10-inch flour tortilla folded in half with just the right amount of cheese. The salsa served on the side was a spicy concoction made with at least two kinds of peppers. It was thinner in consistency than ketchup and didn't have any large chunks of chopped tomatoes or onions like many table salsas.
After two or three bites the cumulative effect of the peppers in the salsa began to tickle the back of our throats. Although it is a great salsa, I wouldn't recommend it to people content with mild salsa from a jar. Thankfully, our waiter checked on us frequently enough that we could order waters or more drinks when we needed.
The menu included a variety of special dishes like the chicken in cream sauce ($6.99), which I ordered, to seafood plates like the spiced hot shrimp ($8.99), which Melissa ordered. Also offered are basic Mexican food staples like burritos ($3.99) and tacos ala carte ($1.99-$2.99).
Both our meals were served hot on large, full plates. Melissa's meal included about 20 medium sized shrimp that were spiced similarly to the table salsa. The waiter warned her the dish was spicy enough to keep her up at night with heartburn, but she ordered it anyhow, appreciating a good mouth-singeing meal. She enjoyed the plump shrimp and their hot marinade, accepting the heartburn, which never materialized, as part of the deal.
My chicken was a baked quarter served with sautéed onions and tomatoes on top and doused in a soupy sour cream and cheese sauce. The chicken was a little tough on one side, but there was more than enough to eat. The onions tasted great wrapped in a tortilla with the chicken, which brings me to the highlight of the meal - the fresh corn tortillas served with each meal.
I usually prefer flour tortillas, but the homemade corn tortillas at Jose Jose changed my mind. They were 6-inches around, hand rolled and fluffy. The texture was soft and chewable, unlike store-bought corn tortillas that are usually served rubbery and break apart when you wrap your food in them to make small burritos. Eight came with our dinner, more than enough for both of us to eat with our meal, and none of mine broke when I filled them with food from my plate.
Both meals came with filling portions of rice and creamy refried beans. Neither had any cheese or garnish on them, but they were tempting just the same, especially the beans. They are likely made with ample portions of lard to have such flavor, but I don't eat Mexican food because it complements my fitness schedule anyway. Calorie counters can at least take comfort in the fact that there are no desserts on the menu.
The whole meal came to $23,
not including tip. It was a little more costly than the
ocean front taco stands of Rocky Point, but neither of us
left hungry or unsatisfied with our meals. Eating in a place
lacking a professional restaurant atmosphere may seem
strange to some, but those who appreciate authenticity will
enjoy it.
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Jose Jose |
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High point: Homemade tortillas and
authentic menu. |
Posted
Dec. 1, 1999
Copyright 1999
Nevada Outpost
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