It won't be your nose growing at Pinocchio's by Joe Gosen, Outpost Contributor A strange thing happened to me at a bar and grill a few months ago. I was told to go somewhere else if I wanted better food. All I did was compliment the bartender on the chicken wings. He said: "If you want good wings go to Pinocchio's. They have the best wings in town." So, a week later after a round of golf, I stopped by Pinocchio's Bar and Grill and ordered the wings. That bartender was right. The Fire-Cracker Wings at Pinocchio's are great. The cajun-spiced wings are crispy on the outside, meaty and juicy on the inside. The wings, served with pepper bleu cheese, are spicy but won't burn your lips. I originally thought Pinocchio's would just be another bar in a strip mall, where the stereo competes with the sound of three televisions and coins dropping in video poker machines. But while sitting at the bar I glanced at the menu. I soon realized Pinocchio's is not your average bar. The menu listed items, such as, grilled polenta with mushrooms and asiago cheese, pepper crusted chicken on a baguette and shrimp scampi bake. One of the pizzas is topped with grilled chicken, artichoke hearts, olives and red onion with a garlic cream sauce. The prices seemed reasonable too. Most of the appetizers cost from $4 to $6, sandwiches from $6 to $8, dinners from $8 to $15 and pizzas for $9.95. After looking over the menu I knew I would return to sample some the food. A couple of weeks later I went back to Pinocchio's with my wife for more than just wings. The staff was friendly, and the service was good that night. The owner greeted us at the door when we arrived, he checked back later to see if we enjoyed our meals and wished us well when we left. The waitress patiently answered our questions about the menu and was attentive without hovering. Even the bartender stopped by our table and said hello. As we sat in our booth we felt right at home. The restaurant seemed more comfortable than fancy. But there were touches of elegance, like nicely framed prints on the walls and fabric-covered lamps that shed a warm glow over each table. After awhile, we forgot that we were at a restaurant in a strip mall next to a laundromat near one of the busiest intersections in Reno. Part of the comfort was from feeling like it's a come-as-you-are kind of place. You can go to Pinocchio's if you just want to have a drink, play video poker or watch TV. If you want to sit outside under an umbrella and watch the traffic go by, you can do that too. And if you want a table for eight or a booth for two, there's space for you. Pinocchio's has a nice selection of 17 wines and 20 beers. If you want a cocktail, you can have one of those too. After all, this is a bar. I ordered the wings again and my wife ordered the calamari for $7.50. We expected little calamari ringlets but were delighted to be served nine, 6-inch, lightly-battered calamari steaks, a generous portion that can easily be shared by two or three people. My wife was already full from the appetizers, so we split the Big House Salad. Served in big bowl, the salad was mixture of romaine lettuce, purple onions, shaved carrots, croutons and not a trace of iceberg lettuce, which delighted my wife. It was tossed with a tasty, homemade dijon vinaigrette dressing. We also were served a fresh baguette that was hot, light and flaky. After the salad, I was getting full too, so I Iooked to the sandwich menu instead of the dinners. I ordered the garlic steak sandwich, $7.95, with Bavarian potato vegetable soup instead of beer-battered fries. The soup was terrific. It had chunks of green peeper, ham, onion, celery and potatoes in a creamy broth. The sandwich was full of good flavor and was a manageable size. We didn't have any room left for dessert. But with the selection we might make a special trip back. We passed up a mud pie that night, as it turned out, a smart choice. The hunk of chocolate was big enough that five women at the next table shared one. We also had to pass on the bread pudding with cinnamon apples, cherries and rum raisin sauce, and the apple pie ala mode. Pinocchio's has been open for more than six months now. The atmosphere and food it provides will surely create a strong following of regulars stopping for a quick lunch or a long dinner. I think I'll go back to that other bar and grill, order an appetizer and see where the bartender sends me next.   Pinocchio's Bar and Grill 551 East Moana Lane (702) 826-5151 Hours: Mon through Thursday, 11a.m. to 9p.m.; Friday through Saturday, 11a.m. to 11p.m.; Sunday-closed High point: good food and friendly service Low point: located in a strip mall near a busy intersection Visa, Master Card and local checks (with proper identification) accepted   copyright 12/8/97 Nevada Outpost http://www.jour.unr.edu/outpost