El Tenampa serves authentic Latin flavors by Erica Grimaldo, Outpost staff The atmosphere at El Tenampa is comfortable and relaxed. At the entrance, the cashier invites all guests to chose their own seats. Your waiter usually follows with a menu and complimentary chips. Photo by Erica Grimaldo. El Tenampa is not just another eatery that puts exotic names on the menu hoping to take advantage of Americans' curiosity. It's a charming little restaurant that delivers authentic dishes from Mexico and El Salvador. Nestled behind Mexico Lindo convenience store in Sparks, El Tenampa is one of those low-profile places that most people find through a friend's recommendation. So here is mine: Don't come here expecting hard tacos and chicken pineapple fajitas. Those, just like fortune cookies, are American inventions. At El Tenampa you can find classics like Mole, Pozole, rice with fried bananas and a list of popular Latin American beer brands. I found this place over a year ago and I have probably tried every dish in the menu and every beer brand on the list. My favorite for lunch is an order of two Salvadorian popusas, which resemble thick tortillas with cheese and pork meat, and Mexican Horchata, the rice drink. It's a quick and fulfilling meal for about $4. Margarita Goto prepares the popusa's mixture every morning and then makes individual popusas to order. Photo by Erica Grimaldo. Margarita Goto, the Salvadorian cook, makes the popusas to order in her hot grill. You can order them with just cheese if you're a vegetarian. Manuel, the smiling waiter, will bring them to your table topped with 'curtido,' a traditional salad mixture of carrots, cabbage and spices. While you wait, you can dip your free chips into one of their wonderful homemade salsas. But be aware, roasted hot peppers are an acquired taste. If you decide to skip the salsa on your table, you might want to try the salsa music in the jukebox. For just a few coins you can listen to a couple of lively tunes from Marc Anthony, Azucar Moreno or Enrique Iglesias. The atmosphere at El Tenampa is relaxed and informal. If you want to get the most out of your $.50 and sing along with the jukebox, you will probably get an applause from your waiter. I wouldn't recommend this place if you are trying to impress a date with an expensive formal dinner. I recommended it if you are looking for good food at an affordable price. During my last visit, I had a Mexican Huarache, one of El Tenampa's latest additions to the menu. It wasn't as good as my grandmother's recipe but still highly recommendable. The plate included Spanish rice, refried beans and a small salad. My friend had a popusa, fried bananas with sour cream and a Salvadorian Horchata. The best part was that our total bill was less than $15.   El Tenampa (775) 356-0502 1820 Prater Way Sparks, Nev. HOURS: 9 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; 4:30 - 9 p.m. daily PRICE RANGE: Most entries are $5 - $10. HIGH POINT: You can call and order food for pick up if you'd rather eat it at home. LOW POINT: They only take cash. Posted Sept. 29, 1999 Copyright 1999, Nevada Oupost TOP