Amici's
adds its Italian flavor to Reno
by Brad
Horn, Outpost
staff
Every town seems to have an abundance of Italian
restaurants and Reno is no exception. Anyone can dice
chicken, sauté it in wine with capers and garlic,
toss it all in angel hair pasta and call themselves an
Italian restaurant. The good ones become habitual
destinations for the dining community while the others close
within a year. Amici's is on their way to becoming one of
Reno's favorite Italian joints. LETS EAT:
Amici's, a recent addition to the Reno dining
community brings Italian food lovers an experience
to be cherished.
Photo by
Brad
Horn
Five months ago Amici's Pasta & Pizza opened in
the space that once housed Circus Circus's Hickory Pit
Steakhouse. Bricks line the walls of Amici's and
mahogany-wooden beams criss-cross the ceiling. Tables are
set in traditional Italian fashion--simple. A white-linen
cloth covers the tables that are set with bottles of olive
oil and vinegar with water glasses stuffed with red and
green linen napkins.
The smiling hostess led my dining partner Erin and me to a big comfortable booth in the middle of the half-full restaurant.
The appetizer list was a bit incomplete. Calamari Fritti, bruschetta, eggplant parmigiana, mozzarella dorata, and garlic bread comprised the list ranging from $5-$8. They should add and antipasto plate and duck or veal ravioli.
The gourmet thin crust pizzas that Amici's offers would be the perfect appetizer for a couple.
We decided on the calamari fritti ($8). For entrees Erin chose the pizza genovese ($12) and I choose the veal chop special ($18.95). Entrees are served a la carte--an indication Amici's is positioning itself in the category of fine dining.
Minestrone and tomato soups ($4) along with fresh mozzarella, Caesar and a house salad ($4-$6) are offered for second courses.
The calamari was great. Rings and tentacles lightly breaded tasted fresh--not too chewy. Shaved Parmesan cheese was flaked over the top of the dish and a wonderful marinara sauce was served for dipping. The blend of basil and garlic in the sauce was perfect.
Before dinner I glanced over the wine list to see if there were any tempting varietals by the glass. Their wine list is disappointing. Any restaurant that carries Ferrari-Carano wines as their featured premiere wine needs to reconsider their selection. Ferrari-Carano is a popular name that catches the attention of many diners. It is a good wine but besides the cabernet sauvignon, fume blanc and chardonnay Amici's offers by the bottle, the list lacks diversity and utility.
I wanted to drink wine with my veal so I selected a cabernet by Beringer "Knights Valley" ($6.75).
One thing that Amici's seems to have done is train their staff well--it was evident the entire dining experience. The hostess pulled the napkins from the glasses and laid them on our laps. She paused and then gave us our menus leaving us with a smile and wishing us an exquisite dinner. The servers and bussers stand in position, in sight of the diners, while waiting for their next duty. I never had to ask for anything.
Our waiter timed the courses perfectly. My wine arrived just before the entrees and when I saw my veal, I couldn't wait to taste the thick juicy chop. The veal was marinated in rosemary and garlic, grilled medium-rare, and then finished with a balsamic demi-glaze. The demi-glaze was the perfect complement for the veal. The natural flavors of the meat and the bite of the balsamic sauce worked well together. And to my surprise the wine paired with the veal nicely. An asparagus saffron risotto accompanied the veal--the risotto was marvelous. Just a hint of saffron blended with asparagus and peas made this a remarkable dish.
Erin's pizza was good also. A very thin crust with a light pesto sauce with mozzarella cheese and a handful of plump shrimps filled the edges of her plate. I sampled a slice and agreed with her that Amici's puts out a good pizza.
A sampling of a restaurant's desserts is necessary to fully appreciate what the chef is creating in the kitchen, and it also fills my obsessive craving for sugar.
Traditional Italian desserts like tiramisu and cheesecake along with a flourless chocolate cake and bread pudding fill their dessert list. They should have gelatos and mousses also.
We chose the cannoli. It was delicious except for the candied citron blended in the ricotta cheese filling. I've never had cannoli like this before.
I finished the evening with a double espresso that our waiter Nick emphatically described to his busser as "not just coffee but ESPRESSO."
Amici's is on its way to becoming a staple in the Reno Italian dining experience but if they are to compete they must raise their level in service and food. They should expand their appetizer list, include gelato for dessert, and present a respectable wine list for their guests. The service was very good, but the waitstaff should lead the dinner through their experience with suggestions rather than just take their orders. Amici's does a fine job but with a few changes it could be so much better. Their potential can be tasted in the food.
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Amici's Pasta & Pizza Inside Circus Circus Hotel/Casino 500 N. Sierra St., Reno NV 89503 775-329-0711 |
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High point: The specials |
Posted
April 7, 2000
Copyright 2000
Nevada Outpost
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