Sunset Grille doesn't live up to billing by Tim Pershing, Outpost Contributor We didn't have a lot of time or money. My friend Brad had to catch a plane in an hour, and we were starving. We needed to find a good place to eat that wasn't expensive, wasn't fast food and wouldn't take all night. In short, we were on a mission impossible. And then we saw the Sunset Grille. With its 10-foot billboard proclaiming it the "finest local hometown restaurant" in Reno, I expected only one thing from the place that replaced Hooter's Bar and Grill: Reno's finest local hometown restaurant. Sunset Grille isn't all its cracked up to be. Photo by Michelle Fraser. I entered the Sunset Grille with a hearty appetite but left with a bad taste in my mouth. At the door we were greeted by Kristin, who also would be our server, and were seated promptly in the sparsely populated dining area. The decor reminded us of a hospital cafeteria, green and clean but bordering on industrial. With wood paneling on the walls and ceiling and the generic pictures hanging above the booths, it resembled an upscale Denny's or a lower echelon Houlihan's. At the small bar in the back, eight men watched the 49ers beat the tar out of the Panthers. The bar was visible yet quiet, and we barely knew it existed except for the occasional cheers from San Francisco fans. We perused the menus and weighed our options. The menu ranged from burgers, including the BBQ burger ($7), to grilled salmon ($10) to "house made" lasagna ($9). The menu also included a wide variety of salads and sandwiches. I opted for the Ricotta Cheese Tortellini ($8), while Brad chose the Club House sandwich with potato salad ($7). We also ordered chips and salsa ($3), one of the many appetizers that ranged from $3 to $7. I was a bit skeptical at ordering a pasta dish from a hometown grill, but I thought I would give the place a chance to show that it could produce more than just a decent hamburger. With Top-40 music drifting down from the speakers, we dove into the chips and salsa. The chips came in a large basket but were a bit stale, bordering on crunchy. They were edible but not particularly fresh. The salsa was hot but runny, and I had to dig around for the tomatoes languishing on the bottom of the bowl. Maybe the salsa was made in New York City. One thing I appreciate in a server is how quickly my glass is refilled with fresh Coke. In this area, I was pleasantly surprised. By the time we were served our main course, I had already consumed two bubbly Coca-Colas. Mmm. Just as we were wondering when our meals would arrive, Kristin set down two plates overflowing with food. One thing about the Sunset Grille, it doesn't skimp on portions. My tortellini in pesto sauce arrived steaming with two slices of garlic bread, fresh tomato chunks and parmesan cheese topping it off. Good but not spectacular, the sauce was creamy and rich. The tortellini tender but not soggy. It reminded me of the Contadina pasta I recently bought at the supermarket. I could have made it just as well at home for half the price. I was right to be suspicious. Brad's sandwich was so big I took the rest of it home. But he liked what he ate, and we both enjoyed the interesting potato salad. I say "interesting" because instead of chunks, the potatoes were sliced thick as if to be fried. It made no difference in the taste, but I have never had to cut my potato salad. The Sunset Grille boasts of its stature in Reno, but I can think of several other eateries in Reno that are just as good. For pasta, The Olive Garden is still the best place in my book. But then again one of my favorite noodle dishes is Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. Though the location looks more respectable now than when it was Hooters, at least Hooters wasn't guilty of false advertising. At $24, the meal was priced a bit high. And the designation of "finest hometown restaurant" should be left to the annual "Best Of Reno" competition in the Reno Gazette-Journal. If the public votes it the finest, then maybe I'll give the restaurant a chance to redeem itself.   Sunset Grille 3655 S. Virginia Phone: 826-2228 Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., Bar open until midnight; Sunday, 7 to 8 p.m., Bar open until 8 p.m. High points: large portions, prompt service, wide menu selection, clean dining area and friendly service Low point: lack of atmosphere, mediocre food, combination of bar patrons, radio and grill can be distracting All major credit cards (except for Discover) and personal checks with proper identification accepted   copyright 12/8/97 Nevada Outpost http://www.jour.unr.edu/outpost