Long, winding road leads back to Lone pine
by Catherine Felty, Outpost staff
The drive to Lone Pine might seem torturous for some: five hours behind the wheel, traveling over 8,000-foot mountain passes, through arid, sagebrush-covered land.
But for my husband Steve and me, the route down Highway 395 has become a ritual. We look for the aspen trees that turn golden in frosty fall nights. In the spring, we compare how much snow is left with previous springs. And in the summer, we watch for the purple, blue, orange and white wildflowers that cover the hillsides.
The first part of the drive is familiar to anyone who has visited the state capital, Gardnerville or Minden. That's where most Renoites stop. But there's plenty between Minden and Lone Pine to keep travelers occupied along the way.
Last-chance gamblers hit state line
About 40 miles south of Carson City, near the border of Nevada and California, is the tiny community of Topaz, on the banks of Topaz Lake. This lake straddles the state line, but anglers should take note of which state they're in and make sure they have the appropriate license.
There is a motel, restaurant and, because this is the first stop in Nevada for out-of-state gamblers, a casino. The restaurant, overlooking the lake, has surprisingly good food for a moderately priced casino restaurant. Get there before sunrise some morning for breakfast and watch as the sun comes peeping over the eastern hills and lights up the lake.
South of Topaz, Highway 395 cuts through the Walker River canyon. This stretch of highway was just rebuilt following the 1996 flood, which wiped out several miles of pavement, along with trees and homes.
Tufa formations line Mono Lake
The highway passes Mono Lake, the desert lake that is attempting an ecological comeback. Less water is now being sent south for municipal use, thanks to a 1994 decision by the California State Water Resources Control Board that protects the lake and its tributaries.
Frequent travelers can now see the water levels rising for the first time in decades. The strange rock formations dotting the lake's beaches are fragile calcium carbonate deposits called tufa. There is a visitor's center on the south end of the lake where visitors can pick up information on hiking and picnicking.
A few miles down the road is Lee Vining, a community of less than 1,000 people, where many of the businesses are also making a comeback now that Mono Lake is recovering from many thirsty years.
The town has a grocery store, motels -- some with a view of Mono Lake -- restaurants and four gas stations. Fill up your tank before you hit the mountains: gas can run up to 20 cents more per gallon than in the Reno or Carson City areas. But the stations in Lee Vining provide a good place to top off before heading down the road.
June Lakes Loop catches travelers, anglers
About 10 miles further south on Highway 395, watch for the June Lake Loop, a scenic side road that turns off to the west. The road winds around mountains and passes three lakes and a waterfall before returning to the main highway. This area is well known for its trout fishing, and, if you have a California fishing license, you may want to try out the local "hot" spots.
Although the loop may add an extra half hour to your trip, the trees, lakes and creeks provide some spectacular and refreshing scenery. Cabins and resorts line the road, but if you plan on spending the night here, call ahead for reservations. Check out the many listings on the June Lakes and High Sierra Web sites.
Another lake just west off Highway 395 is Convict Lake, a small lake hidden from the highway in a bowl-shaped valley. Look for the signs south of the Mammoth Lake turnoff after the road flattens out.
Because the lake is about two miles off the highway, the surroundings are very peaceful. Steep mountainsides rise from around the water, giving the impression that you're standing in the bottom of a giant soup bowl. Local legend has it that the lake was named after some escaped convicts were captured there.
Place a bet with Native American gaming
In Bishop, the Owens Valley's largest town with a population of about 3,500, you'll pass the Paiute Palace Casino on the south side of Highway 395 on the western side of Bishop. A Native American-owned casino, Paiute Palace offers Nevadans an interesting glimpse of non-Nevada gaming.
Although the look and sound here is familiar -- bells, lights and gamblers -- the machines pay out in paper slips instead of coins.
A printed receipt somehow doesn't have the same impact as 180 nickels dropping into your payout tray, but you can exchange your receipt for cold, hard cash before driving the last hour of your journey to Lone Pine.
Posted Nov. 11, 1998
Copyright 1998 Nevada Outpost