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Pyramid Lake

By Jessica Groach, Outpost contributor

In this package:


A natural beauty

Galena Creek Park

Wild horses

 
Part of being in the West involves interaction with Native Americans living on tribal lands. Several different tribes originate from Northern Nevada -- the Washoe, the Shoshone and the Paiute tribes. The Paiute Tribe Reservation is home to Pyramid Lake. Often called "the world's most beautiful desert lake," Pyramid is a pluvial lake, a type of like that exists in semiarid or arid environments. Traveling northeast on Pyramid Highway, the lake is only 33 miles from the Reno/Sparks area. The lake is 26 miles long, 4 to 11 miles wide and 350 feet at its deepest point. Visitors can enjoy a full 70 miles of sand beaches. The clear water in Pyramid reflects the sky in such a way that on a clear sunny day it appears turquoise, and on cloudier days it is a rich, emerald green with spots of deep blue. The lake remains the sole remnant of an inland sea, Lake Lahontan, that once covered more than 8,000 square miles, most of Nevada and Utah, about 11,000 years ago following the ice age.

Pyramid Lake, Nevada. Photo by Scott Mensing
According to the Reno/Sparks Convention and Visitors Authority, the lake was "discovered" in January 1844 by John C. Fremont, who stumbled upon it. The first feature Fremont noticed was the unusual rock formations on the water's edge. One particular formation he described as "a remarkable rock in the lake which presented a pretty exact outline of the great Pyramid of Cheops." The rock indeed looks like a pyramid, which is how the lake's name came about.

The rocks, including the pyramid rock, are called tufa, a carbonate deposit formed in calcium-carbonate rich water. Pyramid Lake is the world's largest producer of tufa rock, which requires a particular environment to form: a stable lake, a source of calcium, high water temperatures and a stable substrate or bedrock. With these four conditions in play, all that is required is a branch, rock or bone to serve as a base around which the carbonate can form. The tufa at Pyramid, especially the pyramid rock, clearly represent the age of the lake and the environmental conditions it has survived. Levels of age are demonstrated through primary sill levels, or changes in color and texture of the rock, which are the results of floods, droughts, winds and glacial activity. The pyramid rock seems to be striped, with a lighter stripe on the bottom and growing darker toward the top.

Along with the pyramid, other distinctive formations reside at the lake, such as the "Stone Mother" and her "basket." The story of this rock, as recorded by the Paiute tribe's Pyramid Lake Historical Museum, is that long ago a mother in grief because her children could not get along sat in the middle of the desert and cried so many tears that they filled the lake now known as Pyramid, then she turned to stone. Her basket sits on its side next to her, as if she just dropped it in her despair -- the basket actually is a hollowed, roundish rock. Both these formations are found at the east side of the lake.

The primary area of tufa deposition, however, is located at the northwest tip of the lake in the hot springs area at the Needles. This is an area of geothermal activity containing more tufa deposition than anywhere else in the world.

Another special area of rock formation is Anaho Island, one of the pyramid-shaped rocks at Pyramid, a rocky peak several hundred acres in size that is one of only eight white pelican nesting grounds in North America.

"It's the largest successful breeding ground for the American white pelican," says William Henry, wildlife biologist for Anaho Island National Wildlife Refuge at Pyramid Lake. "It's so successful because they require stability. Pyramid's a deep-water lake with an island that's been around for 4,000 years."

Henry says the Truckee River mouths, the lake's only water source, allow the pelicans to forage for food close to home. In the spring as many as 9,500 pelicans nest on the island.

Anaho is protected jointly by the Paiute tribe and the federal government so the island is carefully guarded against intruding boats or wandering visitors, who are strictly prohibited within 500 feet of the island. The slightest disturbance may cause the mothers to abandon their young in distress. The Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide, published in 1993, suggests viewing the island from the southeastern shore of the lake or from the Sutcliffe Marina on the southwestern shore, which is most easily done with binoculars.

Anaho serves as home to many other species of bird, such as double-crested cormorants, California gulls, blue herons, Caspian terns, Golden and Bald eagles, rock wrens, owls, falcons, raven, snowy egrets and California quail. Pelicans are visible from March through October, and waterfowl, Golden eagle, and hawk viewing is usually good year-round.

The rural nature of the lake, which is well-preserved by the Paiute tribe, allows an uncommon amount of wildlife to remain at Pyramid undisturbed. Not only do a variety of birds reside here, but also wild horses, burros, Big Horn sheep, mountain lions, bobcats, Pronghorn antelope, mule deer, coyotes, foxes, and jack rabbits wander the hills of Pyramid. Few spots in the country anymore may claim such a kinship to wildlife. According to the wildlife displays at the Pyramid Lake Historical Museum, a person may see "more wildlife here than one finds in the high Sierras."

And not only is wildlife plentiful above ground; fish abound at Pyramid.

"Pyramid is the only place in the world with 40-pound Cutthroat trout -- and we're not anywhere near the ocean," Henry says.

The prehistoric Cui-ui fish, now nearly extinct, still live in Pyramid Lake, and some of them have lived for more than 25 years. The Cui-ui have existed nearly 2 million years and were once the primary staple of the Paiute diet.

"The alkaline in the water is very unusual, that's why the Cui-ui still live here," Henry says. "And it's real hard on the kidneys--it crystallizes. Fish had better be adapted to it."

To ensure that the Cui-ui and the Cutthroat are able to continue living in the lake, wildlife biologists must keep the water clean and warm for spawning. The Dunn Fish Hatchery, located on the Paiute reservation, makes sure fresh water is added to the lake. Its level drops about one foot per year and has done so for the last 90 years. Four feet of fresh water is what's really needed every year just to replace what's been lost to evaporation. And not only is the water an obstacle to survival; extremely intensive fishing has caused these fish to almost entirely die out.

The primitive Paiute petroglyphs that are etched in the rocks surrounding the lake, surviving 10,000 years after the Ice Age, are fighting their own battle for space now among graffiti left behind by careless campers. Pyramid Lake requires a great deal of maintenance by the government and the Paiutes to retain its beauty and seemingly untouched appearance.

Nearby residents may take advantage year-round of picnic and camping areas, boat marinas, fishing, hunting, and water sports. State route 445, which travels the perimeter of the lake, is the only byway in the nation entirely contained within a tribal reservation. The Paiute tribal offices are located in Nixon, at the lake's edge. These offices maintain harmony between the lake of the Paiutes and its visitors, while working to preserve its splendor, which resembles no other in the world.

copyright 11/15/97 Nevada Outpost http://www.jour.unr.edu/outpost


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